UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA 

COLLEGE    OF    AGRICULTURE 

AGRICULTURAL   EXPERIMENT   STATION 

CIRCULAR  No.  231 
December,  1921 

THE*  HOME   VINEYARD 

By  L.  O.  BONNET 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Uses  of  Grapes 2 

Grape  Culture  in  California 2 

Varieties  for  the  Home  Vineyard ......:...:.. 3 

Propagation  of  Vines...... ...., ; .  5 

Preparation  of  Ground  and  Planting 6 

Supports 6 

Arbors 7 

Treatment  of  Young  Vines 8 

Treatment  of  Full-bearing  Vines 9 

Cultivation 10 

Irrigation 11 

Diseases,  Pests 11 

References  for  study 12 


J  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION 

Uses  of  Grapes. — The  grape  is  one  of  the  best  of  home  fruits.  The 
abundant  foliage  with  its  changing  tints  and  the  fruit  with  its  varied 
forms  and  colors  add  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  garden,  and 
the  ease  with  which  the  vines  can  be  trained  facilitates  their  use  as 
ornamentals.  But  the  chief  value  of  the  home  vineyard  lies  in  the 
abundance  and  utility  of  the  crop. 

The  home  vineyard  should  be  so  planned  that  rt  will  furnish  the 
table  with  fresh  fruit  of  various  colors,  shapes,  and  flavors  during  the 
whole  grape  season,  from  July  to  November.  It  should  also  provide 
the  family  with  raisins,  grape  syrup,  grape  juice,  jellies,  marmalades, 
and  vinegar,  all  of  the  best  quality.  To  accomplish  this,  several  kinds 
of  grapes,  wisely  chosen  from  the  extremely  varied  and  numerous 
varieties,  must  be  grown. 

Grape  Culture  in  California. — California,  with  its  variety  of  suit- 
able climates,  is  so  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  grapes  that  it  is 
possible  to  grow  in  the  open,  in  some  locality,  all  of  the  varieties  used 
iD  the  vineyards  and  in  the  hothouse  graperies  of  the  world. 

Eastern  grapes,  with  their  marked  acidity  and  peculiar  flavor, 
pleasing  to  some  people,  and  suitable  for  grape  juice  and  jellies,  thrive 
in  the  fog  belt  and  the  coastal  regions.  Less  satisfactory  results  will 
usually  be  obtained  with  these  grapes  when  they  are  grown  in  the  hot 
interior  valleys. 

The  European  or  Vinifera  vine  with  its  innumerable  varieties  is 
adapted  to  many  different  climates  and  soils  and  can  be  grown  almost 
everywhere  in  California.  Some  varieties  are  especially  adapted  to 
cool  locations,  while  others  will  give  the  best  results  when  planted 
in  warm  regions. 

Vinifera  varieties  may  be  divided  into  three  groups,  classified 
as  table  grapes,  wine  grapes,  and  raisin  grapes.  The  table  grapes, 
namely,  varieties  suitable  to  be  eaten  as  fresh  fruit,  may  be  placed 
in  two  categories,  poor  shippers  and  good  shippers.  Many  of  the  poor 
shippers  are  better  for  eating  than  are  the  good  shippers.  The  term 
1 '  wine  grapes ' '  refers  to  a  large  number  of  varieties  of  grapes.  These 
grapes  generally  have  small  berries  whose  juice  can  be  easily  extracted 
and  which  possess  a  neutral  or  more  or  less  pronounced  flavor.  They 
are  especially  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  grape  juices  and  grape 
syrups.  Raisin  grapes  are  those  whose  high  sugar  content,  desirable 
flavor,  size,  or  seedlessness  make  them  suitable  for  drying. 


Circular  231] 


THE   HOME   VINEYARD 


VARIETIES    FOR   THE    HOME    VINEYARD 

The  list  of  grapes  given  in  Table  1  contains  an  assortment  of  the 
choicest  table  grapes,  a  few  raisin  varieties,  and  a  certain  nnmber 
of  varieties  suitable  for  the  production  of  grape  juice  and  other  grape 
products. 

From  this  list  many  selected  groups  for  home  vineyards  may  be 
made  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  amateur  grape  grower,  and  to  fit  the 
climatic  conditions  of  a  locality.  A  complete  group  would  be  one  from 
which  all  types  of  grape  products  could  be  made.  The  varieties  should 
also  be  selected  from  the  point  of  view  of  their  time  of  ripening  so 
that  a  successtion  of  -ripe  grapes  may  be  secured.  It  is  obvious  that 
they  should  be  varied  in  shape,  flavor,  size  and  color. 

If  the  vines  are  to  be  grown  for  an  arbor  they  should  be  selected 
from  the  most  vigorous  varieties,  though  almost  any  vine  can  be 
used  for  this  purpose. 

All  this  various  and  interesting  diversity  can  be  obtained  by  using 
Table  1  with  the  explanation  of  abbreviations  contained  in  Table  2. 


TABLE  1 

LIST   OF   VARIETIES 

Shape  and 
Variety  Flavor  Si: 

1.  Agawam sf 

2.  Alicante,  Black s 

3.  Appley  Towers o 

4.  Bellino s 

5.  Chasselas  rose s 

6.  Chaouch o 

7.  Ciprollnero : o 

8.  Colman,  Gros s 

*9.  Corinth,  Black s 

10.  Cornichon,  Black e 

11.  Damas  rose s 

12.  Damascus,  Black o 

13.  Danugue s 

14.  Dattier e 

15.  Dizmar o 

16.  Doigt  de  Deesse e 

17.  Due  de  Magenta s 

18.  Emperor e 

19.  English  Colossal e 

20.  Grec  rouge s 

21.  Henab o 

22.  Hunisa e 

23.  Khalili o 


ze 

Color 

Period 

Vigor  and 
Climate 

m 

r 

e 

aac 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

b 

e 

h 

m 

r 

ve 

wc 

vl 

w 

ve 

h 

1 

rb 

m 

h 

vl 

b 

m 

ah 

vs 

br 

ve 

aah 

1 

b 

1 

ah 

vl 

r 

m 

h 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

b 

m 

ahc 

vl 

w 

m 

ah 

1 

w 

ve 

aah 

vl 

r 

m 

ah 

m 

b 

e 

he 

1 

rb 

1 

ah 

m 

b 

ve 

h 

m 

r 

m 

c 

1 

r 

m 

ah 

1 

br 

m 

h 

m 

w 

ve 

wh 

UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION 


TABLE  1— (Continued) 

Shape  and 

Variety  Flavor 

24.  Kurtelaska o 

25.  Luglienga o 

26.  Madresfield  Court om 

27.  Malaga o 

28.  Malvasia  bianca sm 

29.  Molinera s 

30.  Mavron o 

*31.     Monukka,  Black e 

32.  Morocco,  Black s 

33.  Moscatello  fino om 

34.  Muscat,  Flame om 

35.  Muscat  of  Alexandria om 

36.  Napoleon s 

37.  Niagara sf 

38.  Olivette  blanche e 

39.  Olivette  rose e 

40.  Palomino s 

41.  Panse  de  Roquevaire e 

42.  Paykani e 

43.  Pierce  Isabella sf 

44.  Portuguese,  Blue s 

45.  Prune  de  Cazouls e 

46.  Quagliano s 

47.  Queen,  Golden o 

48.  Raisin  du  St.  Pere e 

49.  Servan s 

*50.     Sultanina,  Rose o 

51.  Terret  Monstre e 

52.  Trentham,  Black o 

53.  Ohanez o 


Size 

Color 

Period 

Vigor  and 
Climate 

1 

W 

e 

h 

m 

W 

ve 

ch 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

w 

m 

h 

m 

w 

m 

ach 

1 

r 

m 

ahc 

1 

r 

1* 

h 

m 

b 

ve 

ahc 

vl 

b 

vl 

h 

m 

b 

m 

he 

1 

r 

m 

he 

1 

w 

m 

he 

1 

w 

e 

c 

m 

w 

e 

aac 

1 

w 

vl 

h 

m 

r 

1 

h 

m 

w 

m 

ach 

1 

w 

m 

h 

m 

r 

ve 

aah 

1 

b 

m 

aac 

m 

b 

ve 

c 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

w 

m 

ah 

sm 

w 

m 

ch 

1 

w 

vl 

ch 

s 

r 

e 

aac 

vl 

w 

m 

h 

1 

b 

m 

h 

1 

w 

vl 

ah 

TABLE  2 
Explanation  of  Abbreviations  in  Table  1 


Shape  and  Flavor 

Size 

Color 

Period 

Vigor  and  Climate 

e  =  elongated 

1 = large 

w  =  white 

ve  =  very  early 

a  =  very  vigorous 
suitable  for 
arbors 

o  =  oval 

m  =  medium 

r  =  red 

e  =  early 

w  =  small  vine 

s  =  spherical 

s  =  small 

b  =  black 

m  =  mid  season 

h  =  hot  regions 

m  =  muscat 
flavor 

vl  =  very  large 

l=late 

c  =  cool  regions 
*  =  seedless 

f  =  concord 
flavor 

vl  =  very  late 

aa  =  do  well  only 
on  trellis  or  arbor 

Combinations  indicate  variations  due  to  climate.    For  example,  rb  indicates  that  the  grape  is 
red  in  a  warm  climate  and  black  in  a  cool  one. 


Cool  regions 

Warm  regions 

25 

6,  15,  23 

5 

42 

31,  44 

19,31 

24 

24 

1,  9 

9 

17 

4,17 

14,  40 

14 

,  27,  28,  35,  47 

,  16,  20,  35, 

50 

7, 

21,  29,  34,  22 

13,  26,  43 

12,  13 

49 

49 

30,  39 

18,  30 

10 

32 

Circular  231]  the  home  VINEYARD  5 

Typical  examples  of  a  complete  group  for  cool  regions  and  for 
warm  regions  are  given  in  Table  3. 

TABLE  3 
Typical  Complete  Groups  for  Cool  and  Warm  Regions 

Period  Color 

f  White 
Very  Early  j  Red 

[  Black 

f  White 
Early  \  Red 

[  Black 

[  White 
Mid-season  i  Red 

[  Black 

f  White 
Late  <  Red 

[  Black 

Very  Late  White  38,  53 


TABLE  4 

Varieties  for  Special  Purposes 

Seedless  grapes 9,  31,  50 

Grapes  for  juice .-. 28,  33,  40,  43 

Grapes  for  jelly 1,  28,  34,  35,  37,  43 

Grapes  for  preserving 28,  33,  35 

Grapes  for  arbor 1,  8,  9,  10,  13,  14,  15,  16,  18,  20,  28,  29,  31,  39,  40,  42,  43,  47, 

50,  53 

Grapes  with  muscat  flavor 26,  28,  33,  34,  35 

Eastern  grapes  (slip  skins) 1,  37,  43 

Raisin  grapes 9,  31,  35,  40 


PROPAGATION    OF    VINES 

The  propagation  of  vines  is  easy  and  is  generally  done  by  means 
of  cuttings  or  rootings.  In  a  phylloxera-infested  area  resistant  stocks 
must  be  planted.  These  stocks  are  generally  grown  in  the  nursery 
as  ungrafted  or  grafted  cuttings  before  they  are  planted  out  in  the 
field.  For  details  on  this  subject  consult  Circular  No.  225  and  Bulletin 
No.  331  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station. 


UNIVERSITY   OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION 


PREPARATION    OF    GROUND    AND    PLANTING 

Before  planting,  the  ground  must  be  plowed  or  dug  twelve  inches 
or  deeper,  especially  in  heavy  soils.  "When  the  soil  has  been  plowed 
to  a  depth  of  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches,  cuttings  or  rootings  can  be 
planted  with  a  dibble ;  otherwise  holes  must  be  dug. 

The  distances  at  which  vines  should  be  planted  depend  upon  the 
soil  and  climate,  the  shape  and  size  of  an  arbor,  etc.  In  cool  climates 
vines  can  be  planted  according  to  the  square  system  at  7X7  or 
8X8  feet;  or  according  to  the  avenue  system  at  6  X  10,  6  X  12, 
or  7  X  12  feet.  In  warmer  regions  the  following  distances  may 
be  adopted,  9  X  9,  10  X  10,  and  7  X  12,  7  X  14,  8  X  10,  8  X  12  feet. 
The  more  vigorous  the  variety  and  the  more  favorable  the  conditions 
for  growth  the  more  space  each  vine  should  have.  For  covering  orna- 
mental arbors  or  fences  around  the  house  the  vines  should  be  planted 
so  that  they  have  at  least  these  spaces  available  for  root  growth.  (See 
cover  cut.) 

To  insure  the  rooting  of  cuttings,  the  soil  should  be  well  packed 
around  the  base,  and  one  bud  alone  left  above  ground.  In  planting 
rooted  cuttings,  the  top  must  be  pruned  to  one  shoot  with  two  buds 
and  the  roots  cut  back  to  about  three  inches.  When  they  are  planted 
with  a  dibble,  the  roots  must  be  cut  back  to  about  one-fourth  of  an 
inch. 

Packing  the  soil  around  the  roots  should  be  done  carefully.  With 
grafted  vines  the  union  must  be  put  at  or  slightly  above  the  level 
of  the  ground  and  otherwise  planted  like  rootings.  It  is  a  good  prac- 
tice when  planting  to  mound  the  soil  around  the  unions. 

SUPPORTS 

Stakes.— Under  certain  systems  of  pruning,  the  vines  must  be  sup- 
ported temporarily  until  they  are  able  to  support  themselves.  With 
other  methods  of  pruning  they  need  supports  permanently. 

Stakes  used  in  vineyards  may  be  classed  as  (a)  temporary,  (b) 
semipermanent,  and  (c)  permanent  stakes.  For  temporary  stakes  the 
following  sizes  are  desirable :  1"  X  1"  X  40"  for  trellised  vines  and 
2"  X  2"  X  4'  for  vase-form  pruned  vines. 

Semipermanent  stakes,  with  a  probable  duration  of  five  to  eight 
years,  measure  3  to  4  feet  for  grafted  vines  or  ungrafted  vines  with 
short  trunks,  and  6  feet  for  those  with  long  trunks. 

Finally,  permanent  stakes  for  long  pruned  vines  measure  generally 
21/2//  X  2%"  X  6'.  Stakes  5  feet  long,  however,  are  sufficient  for 
the  support  of  a  trellis. 


Circular  231]  THE  HOME  VINEYARD  7 

Trellises. — The  varieties  of  grapes  requiring  long  pruning  and 
those  trained  as  horizontal  cordons  need  trellising  to  secure  the  best 
results.  A  trellis  requires  7-foot  end  posts  on  which  to  stretch  the 
wires,  5-foot  stakes  to  support  the  wires,  and  40-inch  pickets  as 
temporary  supports  for  the  vines.  End  posts  are  generally  made 
of  redwood.  Split  redwood  end  posts  are  better  than  sawed  posts. 
They  must  be  4"  X  5"  X  7',  and  set  slanting  slightly  outward  from 
the  row  with  about  three  feet  and  a  half  in  the  ground.  The  perma- 
nent stakes  supporting  the  strands  of  wire  must  be  put  between  the 
vines  and  not  just  by  them.  This  disposition  presupposes  that  when 
the  vines  were  started  they  were  supported  by  temporary  stakes  or 
pickets.  Placing  the  stakes  every  three  or  four  vines  according  to 
the  distance  at  which  they  are  planted  or  according  to  their  vigor 
and  between  the  vines  has  several  advantages  over  the  ordinary  method 
of  putting  them  at  the  vines.  Generally  two  strands  of  galvanized 
wire  are  used  in  trellises.  The  lower  wire  is  generally  of  No.  11  and 
the  upper  wire  of  No.  13.  The  height  at  which  the  strands  are  set 
from  the  ground  depends  upon  several  factors.  Wires  are  held  by 
staples  and  in  such  a  way  that  they  can  be  stretched  easily.  Figure  3 
corresponds  to  the  type  of  trellises  described  above. 


ARBORS 

Arbors  vary  widely  in  design.  There  is  no  typical  shape  of  arbor, 
and  the  size  also,  may  vary  to  a  large  extent.  They  are  generally 
intended  to  shade  the  entrances  of  houses,  or  to  cover  verandas,  or 
garden  walks.  (See  cover  cut  and  Fig.  1.)  They  are  used  commer- 
cially in  some  countries  for  the  production  of  late  table  grapes. 

Vines  can  easily  be  trained  to  almost  any  form.  Certain  varieties, 
because  of  their  vigor,  climb  more  rapidly  than  others  and  are  gen- 
erally considered  good  arbor  grapes.  However,  it  is  possible  to  grow 
medium  or  weak  varieties  on  arbors  when  they  are  trained  properly. 
The  principle  to  apply  to  arbor  vines  is  that  a  strong  root  system  must 
be  developed  before  attempting  to  form  the  trunk.  "Without  a  strong 
root  system  it  is  impossible  to  make  a  vine  climb  quickly  and  be 
vigorous.    The  procedure  will  be  as  follows : 

First  year :  Plant  a  rooting  or  a  cutting  and  give  it  the  best  care 
without  pruning  or  pinching  it  during  the  whole  growing  season. 

Second  year :  In  winter  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  prune  off  all 
canes  but  the  best  one,  which  should  be  cut  back  to  two  buds.  In 
spring  when  the  shoots  start,  remove  all  but  one  after  the  danger  of 
frosts  is  over  and  tie  it  to  the  support  every  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches. 


8 


UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA — EXPERIMENT    STATION 


The  more  vertical  a  shoot  grows  the  longer  it  gets.  Pinch  the  growing 
tips  of  any  strong  laterals  that  may  form  on  the  main  shoot.  When 
the  shoot  has  reached  the  top  of  the  arbor  the  main  difficulty  has  been 
overcome.  From  this  point  it  may  be  spread  over  the  arbor,  care 
being  taken  to  prune  according  to  the  usual  method  applied  to  the 
variety.  If  the  growth  during  the  second  year  is  not  satisfactory, 
prune  and  train  the  vine  the  third  year  as  was  done  during  the  second 
year. 


Fig.  1 


TREATMENT    OF    YOUNG    VINES    THE    FIRST,     SECOND,     AND    THIRD    YEARS 

During  the  first  growing  season,  the  vines  should  be  hoed  and 
cultivated  several  times.  Early  summer  irrigations  should  be  given 
when  possible.  No  removel  of  shoots  nor  pinching  is  necessary  during 
the  first  year,  except  in  the  hottest  and  most  fertile  regions,  nor  is 
staking,  necessary. 

Before  the  second  growing  season  begins,  the  vines  must  be  pruned 
by  leaving  one  spur  with  two  buds  from  which  to  grow  a  single  cane 
which  will  develop  into  the  final  trunk.  The  trunk  may  be  formed 
the  first  year  if  one  cane  is  sufficiently  long  and  strong.  The  vines 
should  be  staked  before  they  begin  to  sprout.  One  shoot  only  should 
be  kept  on  each  vine  and  tied  securely  to  the  stake.  If  an  arbor  is 
desired,  the  shoot  must  be  kept  as  vertical  as  possible  in  order  to 
obtain  a  long  and  straight  growth.  At  the  end  of  the  second  growing 
season  the  trunk  of  the  vine  is  formed.     Pruning  at  this  time  will 


Circular  231] 


THE   HOME   VINEYARD 


consist  of  cutting  the  single  cane  to  the  height  at  which  the  head  of 
the  vine  is  desired.  Laterals  if  they  have  been  produced  may  be 
utilized  to  start  the  arms  of  the  vine. 

During  the  third  growing  season  shoots  will  grow  from  the  upper 
part  of  this  cane  and  all  shoots  within  8  or  10  inches  of  the  ground 
should  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  start,  Shoots  which  will  be  needed 
the  following  year  for  spurs,  or  fruit  canes,  or  for  extending  the  vine 
over  an  arbor  the  next  year,  should  be  allowed  to  grow  freely  without 
summer  pruning.  All  other  shoots  should  be  prevented  from  growing 
too  vigorously  by  pinching  off  the  growing  tip  when  they  are  less 
than  18  inches  long. 


Fig.  2. — Vase  formed  vine. 


TREATMENT    OF    FULL    BEARING    VINES 

Pruning. — Among  the  numerous  systems  of  pruning  vines,  the 
ordinary  vase  form  and  the  bilateral  cordon  are  to  be  recommended 
for  the  home  vineyard.  Nearly  all  of  the  varieties  contained  in  Table  1 
will  give  good  results  with  these  two  types  of  pruning.  The  varieties 
of  the  list  requiring  long  pruning  are  the  Sultanina  and  the  Black 
Corinth.  The  latter  must  also  be  girdled  during  blossoming  to  yield 
satisfactorily. 

Fig.  2  shows  a  three-year-old  vine  pruned  with  a  vase  formed  head. 
The  trunk  is  perfect  and  the  head  is  formed  of  three  well  spaced  spurs 
with  two  buds  each. 


10  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION 

Fig.  3  shows  a  vine  pruned  as  a  bilateral  horizontal  cordon.  A 
cordon  is  a^  long  trunk,  usually  horizontal,  on  which  short  arms  bear- 
ing the  fruit  spurs  are  distributed.  In  covering  an  arbor  modifications 
of  this  system  are  used.  The  trunks  vary  in  length  and  direction 
according  to  the  space  to  be  covered. 


zr  '    ~ 

to 
\ 

i 

l^J= 

~*>  V^rT-^-^tT-^ 

fir 

|if 

M 

w 

*  '*^***crr^^!..-»"^"^-         J 1   fi 

"A— — ^"<Tr 

1 

1 

ir 

-tl--- 

.-£'. , 

Fig.  3. — Bilateral  horizontal  cordon. 

Bearing  vines  should  be  carefully  pruned  every  winter  after  the 
fall  of  the  leaves.  On  a  vine  of  average  vigor  about  two  thirds  of  the 
canes  should  be  removed  entirely  and  the  rest  pruned  back  to  spurs 
of  2  to  3  buds.  In  long  pruning,  canes  of  from  2  to  4  feet  for  fruit  and 
wood  spurs  of  1  or  2  buds  to  produce  fruit  canes  for  the  following 
year  are  left.  The  total  number  of  buds  left  will  be  about  the  same 
with  each  system.  Weak  vines  should  be  pruned  more  severely.  Very 
vigorous  vines  should  be  allowed  more  buds.  The  number  of  buds 
on  spurs  and  canes  should  be  in  proportion  to  their  vigor  or  size. 
Which  canes  to  leave  will  depend  on  their  position.  Vigorous  canes 
so  placed  that  they  will  conserve  or  improve  the  shape  of  the  vine 
should  be  chosen  for  spurs  and  fruit  canes. 

Cultivation. — Each  year  the  home  vineyard  should  be  plowed  and 
hoed.  The  number  of  plowings  and  hoeings  will  depend  upon  whether 
irrigation  is  practiced  or  not.  In  any  case  the  vineyard  should  be 
plowed  to  a  depth  of  six  to  eight  inches  and  the  soil  well  loosened, 
before  the  buds  sprout.  Then  the  vines  should  be  hoed.  If  irrigation 
is  practiced  the  soil  should  be  cultivated  after  each  irrigation.  The 
vineyard  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds  and  supplied  with  a  good 
soil  mulch  up  to  the  picking  of  late  grapes. 


Circular  231]  THe  HOME  VINEYARD  11 

Irrigation. — Irrigation  where  the  rainfall  is  less  than  16  inches 
will  increase  the  quality  and  yield.  Where  the  rainfall  is  less  than 
7  to  10  inches  a  late  winter  irrigation  is  beneficial.  Generally  two 
moderate  irrigations  one  after  the  blossoming  and  one  several  weeks 
before  ripening  will  be  sufficient  to  secure  good  results. 

Diseases. — The  most  common  disease  with  which  the  amateur  grape 
grower  will  have  to  contend  is  the  Oidium  or  Powdery  Mildew. 

Oidiwn,  or  Powdery  Mildew,  is  caused  by  a  fungus  which  attacks 
all  green  parts  of  shoots  and  fruit.  It  is  successfully  combated  by  the 
use  of  powdered  sulfur  dusted  on  the  foliage  and  on  the  bunches 
of  grapes.  Two  to  four  dustings  applied  from  the  time  the  shoots 
measure  six  to  eight  incjies  up  to  the  beginning  of  ripening  will  give 
efficient  protection. 

Pests. — Insect  pests  cause  more  damage  to  vines  than  do  fungus 
diseases.  The  three  most  common  insects  the  home  vineyardist  will 
have  to  fight  are  cut  worm,  grape  leaf  hopper,  and  Phylloxera. 

Cut  worms  sometimes  begin  to  destroy  buds  before  the  vines  are 
sprouting,  but  they  generally  begin  during  sprouting.  As  soon  as 
noticed  they  should  be  combated.  If  chickens  are  allowed  to  run  in  the 
vineyard,  they  will  gather  up  the  worms  efficiently;  if  this  is  not 
feasible,  the  use  of  poisoned  bait  is  the  most  efficient  method  of  destroy- 
ing cut  worms.  One  of  the  following  formulas  may  be  used:  (1) 
Arsenite  of  soda,  1  pound ;  syrup  or  molasses,  2  pounds ;  water,  1 0 
gallons.  Chop  alfalfa  and  dip  in  this  solution.  (2)  Paris  green, 
1  pound ;  molasses,  half  a  gallon ;  water,  4  gallons,  and  bran,  25 
pounds.  A  teaspoonful  of  one  of  these  mixtures  should  be  placed 
around  the  trunk  without  touching  it  or  any  other  part  of  the  vine. 

The  grape  leaf  hopper  is  found  all  over  California  and  causes 
great  injury  to  the  vine  and  the  crop  when  it  occurs  in  large  numbers. 
It  is  best  combated  when  in  its  larval  stage  from  May  to  June,  accord- 
ing to  the  climatic  conditions  of  the  locality.  When  the  majority  of 
eggs  laid  by  the  over-wintering  adults  have  hatched  and  before  any 
hoppers  have  become  winged,  is  the  time  to  control  them.  The  means 
of  control  are  spraying  and  dusting. 

The  following  sp^ay  formula  is  recommended : 

One  pint  of  Black  Leaf  40  to  150  gallons  of  water;  soap,  6  pounds. 
In  spraying,  the  leaves  must  be  hit  from  below.  Thoroughness  is  the 
keynote  of  success. 

Dusting  with  mixtures  known  in  the  trade  as  Nico-Dust  is  still 
in  the  experimental  stage.  Of  all  the  mixtures,  those  containing  sulfur 
seem  to  be  the  most  efficient.    Here  again  the  dust  must  be  directed 


12  UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT    STATION 

from  below  in  order  to  hit  the  hoppers.     Dusting  is  not  so  efficient 
as  spraying. 

The  Phylloxera  is  a  minute  yellowish  insect  attacking  the  roots 
of  vines  and  causing  their  death  in  a  few  years.  Very  sandy  soils 
are  considered  immune  to  the  pest.  When  a  region  is  infested,  the 
only  way  to  establish  a  good  vineyard  is  to  plant  vines  grafted  on 
resistant  stock.  Among  the  best  resistant  stocks  are :  Chasselas  X  Ber- 
landieri  41  B,  Riparia  X  Rupestris  3309  and  3306 ;  Riparia  X  Ber- 
landieri  420  A,  and  Aramon  X  Rupestris  Ganzin  No.  1. 


REFERENCES 

For  general  publications  on  grapes  address: 

1.  Editor  in  Chief,  Division  of  Publications,  U.  S.  D.  A.,  Washington,  D.  C. 

2.  State  Department  of  Agriculture,  Sacramento,  Calif. 

3.  College  of  Agriculture,  Berkeley,  Calif. 

Many  recent  publications  will  be  sent  free  on  application  to  these  three 
addresses.  Publications  which  are  out  of  print  can  often  be  found  at  a  local 
library. 

The  viticultural  publications  of  the  College  of  Agriculture  at  the  present 
time  available  for  distribution  are  the  following: 

1.  <  '  Vine  Pruning  in  California. ' '    Bui.  241  and  246. 

2.  "Seedless  Raisin  Grapes."     Bui.  298. 

3.  "Phylloxera-Resistant  Stocks."     Bui.  331. 

4.  "Hot  Room  Callusing."     Circ.  76. 

5.  "Grafting  Vinifera  Vineyards."     Circ.   115. 

6.  "Spraying  for  the  Grape  Leaf  Hopper."     Circ.  126. 

7.  "Oidium  or  Powdery  Mildew  of  the  Vine."     Circ.  144. 


8.  "Prunning  the  Seedless  Grapes."     Circ.  191. 

9.  "Propagation  of  Vines."     Circ.  225. 

10.  "Protection  of  Vineyards  from  Phylloxera."     Circ.  226. 

11.  "Vineyard  Irrigation  in  Arid  Climates."     Circ.  228.     •     .  . 

12.  "Cordon  Pruning."     Circ.  229. 

There  is  no  book  in  English  treating  fully  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  in  Califor- 
nia, but  valuable  information  may  be  found  in  the  following: 

"Manual  of  American  Grape  Growing."    U.  P.  Hedriek.     The  Macmillan  Com- 
pany, New  York. 
"California  Fruits."     E.  J.  Wickson.     Pacific  Rural  Press,  San  Francisco. 

The  Agriculture  College  of  the  University  of  California  offers  a  correspondence 
course  in  Grape-Growing,  which  may  be  taken  for  a  small  fee. 


